Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny Villages 2015
Many domaines in Burgundy can trace their roots back over 100 years, but only a handful can claim more than 200 years of history, let alone 550 years. Highly regarded as the greatest estate in Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé is now headed by its 20th generation – Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette, the granddaughters of the late Comte Georges de Vogüé. The estate’s longstanding employees have also contributed to the brand’s outstanding quality vintage after vintage with François Millet as Winemaker since 1986, Jean-Luc Pépin as Sales Manager since 1988 and Eric Bourgogne as Vineyard Manager since 1996.
“…the De Vogue Musigny is a wine of great profundity and one of Burgundy’s rare and remarkable treasures” – Remington Norman, The Great Domaines of Burgundy
The winemaking approach at Comte de Vogüé is one blending tradition and modernity, with a constant adaptation to both vineyard and vintage conditions as the priority. The current team of François Millet, Eric Bourgogne, and Jean-Luc Pépin has worked tirelessly since 1986 to maintain the impeccable reputation of the domaine, while also leading a critical role in incorporating a philosophy of lutte raisonnée into the domaine’s practices. As such, all vines are currently ploughed, free from exposure to chemical fertilizers – instead, herbs are planted between vineyard rows to control pests – and kept under control by strict pruning. The stated aim is, as much as possible, to tailor vinification to the year and to the particular vineyard or grapes. In winemaker François Millet’s view, getting to know the idiosyncrasies of each patch of vines is a cornerstone of his work.
Today, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé owns a total of 12.6 ha – 70% of the entire grand cru Musigny – including 7.2 ha in Musigny; 2.7 ha in Bonnes-Mares; 0.56 ha in Chambolle Amoureuses; 0.28 ha in Chambolle 1er crus; 1.8 ha Chambolle village. The terroir consists of thin topsoils over limestone, and vines averaging 41-years-old in Musigny Vieilles Vignes.
“Musigny is indeed an individual and distinctive wine…Delicate, feminine and fragrant, the epitome of finesse: lace, silk and taffeta; violets and dog-roses; raspberries and blackcurrants with a finish of liquorice; amplitude and generosity; intensity without a trace hardness. All this has been said by those attempting to describe Le Musigny.” – Clive Coates, MW
Winemaker François Millet follows an approach that blends tradition with modernity. To achieve this, he keeps both vineyard and vintage conditions a top priority in all decision making. Grapes are typically destemmed followed by native yeast fermentation in large wooden vats. Millet prefers a slow start to fermentation with no cold soak to keep intervention to a minimum. In general, village wines are aged in 15% new French oak barrels, while grand cru wines see no more than 35% new oak to emphasize the earth and fruit flavors instead of spicy wood aromas. Wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered. Very little sulfur is added during fermentation or at bottling.