DOMAINE DE LA ROMANÉE-CONTI LA TÂCHE 2017

A morning spent with Aubert de Villaine provided an opportunity to taste the domaine’s 2016 and 2017 vintages.

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru soars from the glass with a captivating and beautifully integrated bouquet of exotic spices, rose petals, raspberries, cherries and blood orange mingled with notions of cinnamon and coniferous forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a deep and tightly coiled core that marks it out as the most muscular wine in the cellar, displaying considerable concentration and largely concealed structure. While this is a dramatic young La Tâche, there’s evidently plenty held in reserve, too, and it simply has appreciably more presence than any of the other wines that preceded it in this tasting.

Vintages

Of vintage 2017, de Villaine reported that the domaine refrained from green harvesting in the belief that the vines’ natural yield is the optimal yield. The wines, he observed, are “nicely balanced but slimmer than 2015 or 2016”, an analysis with which I wholeheartedly concur, and to which I venture to add that the 2017s are suppler, more open-knit and will be adapted to comparatively near-term consumption. Moreover, after several years of low yields, there will, at last, be a certain quantity of wine to slake the thirst of an adoring—and sometimes, it must be said, uncritical—public. In 2017, it’s also the case that the domaine’s two monopoles stand head-and-shoulders above their other appellations in terms of depth, breadth and incipient complexity, a rapport that I’ve attempted to reflect with my scores.

Text credits: William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, January 2019. 

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