Domaine François Bertheau Bonnes Mares Grand Cru 2016

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“Bertheau’s 0.32 hectares have produced a beautiful 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, a wine that bursts from the glass in a blaze of rose petals, violets, blood orange and raspberries. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and velvety, with a gourmand, layered core of fruit, melting tannins and a pure, fragrant finish.

The garrulous François Bertheau, who has presided over this old-school Chambolle benchmark since 2004, describes the 2017 wines as a “good restaurant vintage”, but in so doing he risks selling short a lovely portfolio of supple, fragrant wines that represent the essence of Chambolle in their elegance and purity. No, 2017 is not as serious or concentrated a year as 2016 or 2015 at this address; but the wines are well worth readers’ attention, and they will deliver immense pleasure in their youth. Indeed, it will be hard to pick a bad time to open a Bertheau 2017, with the sole exception of a more muscular Bonnes-Mares that will merit a decade of patience.” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate, January 2019