Domaine Michelot Bourgogne Cote D’or Blanc 2017
This winery has been in the Michelot family for six generations and, having increased in size over the years, now comprises more than 19 hectares which include a number of prestigious 1er cru wines. The domaine achieved widespread recognition in the 60s under the direction of the charismatic Bernard Michelot and this spirit and tradition flourishes and grows in the hands of the current generation.
The Meursault vineyards are made up of a number of “terroirs” – parcels of land with individual characteristics of soil, drainage and orientation – and their distinct personalities yield a diverse range of wines. They appeal to all our clients, from private individuals to restaurateurs, who enjoy sharing the uplifting pleasures of good wine.
The Wine Advocate Notes:
The 2016 Bourgogne Blanc comes from parcels with the Meursault appellation and represent the largest production of the domaine and sees no new oak. They lost around 50% of the production in this year. Still, the nose is pretty, simple with attractive light peachy aromas that complement the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, nimble on its toes with a fresh, slightly saline finish. It is exactly what you want from a Bourgogne Blanc.
Historically
The wines from this domaine have not been reviewed by this publication for a number years and things have changed in the intervening period. Now Nicolas Mestre is the “dude” at the helm of Domaine Michelot. He looks cool with his long braided hair, more like some of the hip winemakers I have met in New Zealand, so it is perhaps no surprise when he tell me that prior to his maiden vintage at the domaine in 2009 he worked for Constellation in Marlborough. Various scions of the Michelot family that come from Meursault and Santenay bottled their wines under appended names that they felt was confusing for customers, therefore since 2007 everything made at their two wineries on the outskirts of Meursault have come under “Domaine Michelot”. It is relatively large domaine with capacious and well-kept cellars.
Style
Since Nicolas has started he has adopted a leaner and more mineral driven style than before, when the wines underwent a lot more lees-stirring and new oak. Interestingly, he opined that people’s eating habits have changed in France and with younger people eating less buttery, fatty food, then the wines needed to change too. Therefore he practices more remontage than pigeage in order not to extract too much and keep the new oak to around 15% across the range. Since 2003 he has bottled under ScrewCap for many crus depending upon the market, no doubt influenced by his time in New Zealand (and no bad thing in my book). He picked his 2016s from 19 to 27 September, early to capture the freshness.
There are some good wines here, particularly their monopole of Meursault Clos de Félix located behind the winery (located on you left as you depart Meursault village towards Puligny) and also their Meursault 1er Cru Charmes that I think did better this vintage than the Meursault Perrières.
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